Sunday, June 15, 2008

A Fitting Post

(that's a title for my Dad, except I don't think he reads this!)

First, the shots of the original attempt at the vintage dress bodice. Keep in mind that the pattern is designed for someone who's 3" smaller around the chest than I am - the bodice pattern is a little complicated, so I basted and pinned a muslin together out of an old sheet to see where I could add the extra.


(the trial fit of last post's skirt makes an appearance too!)





Ummm - not only do I have about 2" of ease under the bustline, but it keeps falling off my shoulders!! I've cut out a second version, adding 1" to the V at the neckline to see if that's enough to hold it on. I might be able to cross the pieces over more at the base too - depending on how the skirt fits on. So I've cut out the skirt pieces as long as the hip line to see how that all fits together. I mean, it is a bit of a daring look - but I'd like to actually keep the dress on!

In other fitting news, starting the second sure-to-be-finished-for-the-JCC:



Vogue 8324 skort. Definitely "vintage", but I can't find a date on it anywhere. Somehow I assumed 70's. If it turns out to be 60's, I'll regret drawing on it with pencil. 1970s doesn't seem old enough for me to warrant museum-like reverence ;). Definitely a lot more expensive than the 1950's patterns I have, so I think I'm safe.

So the first thing I did was to lay the shorts part of the pattern over my most recent pants-fitting pattern. Which of course had me straightening the back crotch line almost vertical, scooping out the back curve, and shortening the depth by a fair whack. (This is where the pencil entered the picture.)




Not bad for a first attempt. Although this shot was telling:



See the angle the side seam makes to the horizontal? Part and parcel of the extra fabric under the backside. Everything is getting tilted towards the front.

Having looked up my trusty Pants Fit for Real People, well for about the hundredth time, I saw a little box about this very thing - flat seat + tummy = whole pants rotation. They said to pull the front pattern down, and pull the back up. Problem is, I'd already worked so hard over the past few years getting that crotch curve right!! So I was thinking... I need to do the swing forward, but then redraw the original crotch curve on the new pattern. So I laid out the pattern pieces crotch point to crotch point to trace the curve. Then I stared at the pieces a LONG time. What I finally came up with was rotating each piece about the top-side-seam (which is supposed to stay stable), until I'd pulled the front centre point down 1/2" and the back centre point up 1/2". Then I drew in the new side and inseams, leaving the top the same as before (which effectively added the 1/2" to the front, and took off 1/2" from the back). Then I tried to squeek the new seam lines onto the existing pieces...







Now, would you look at that vertical line!! Best of all, they feel so much better!

The astute among you will no doubt note that the drag lines on the front have gotten worse :(. I was playing around with the darts... Ah, well, all of this is going to be covered up by the skirt anyway, so I don't know if I'll bother fixing it. My go-to pants pattern has no more darts in front at all - this is the reason! Thing is, if I take the darts out entirely here, I'll have to recut the front yoke pieces, because they won't be long enough, so I'll see how much the perfectionist wars with the completionist. During contest season? My bet is on completion!

Funny thing?



See step 4: "Insert zipper in front opening". That's the sum total of that instruction. I thought the vintage dress pattern had terse descriptions! At least that one has a whole back-of-the-page for general sewing instructions - this one had nothing! I saw from the diagram that it was a centred zipper application, but it's been so long since I'd done one, I had to pull out my Reader's Digest Complete Guide to Sewing for a refresher!

2 comments:

PurpleSage said...

my you've been busy!

btw: I read D all the important parts ;)

Anushka said...

i'm so bad at bothering with fittings, i can see why it's worth persevering with them though!
i'd say that that pattern was early 70s as well, although our perception of typical 60s fashion didn't really evolve until 1967, so there's no reason why it couldn't be 60s either.
thank you so much for your advice to me recently. you're very wise and i appreciate it immensely.